Frequently Asked Questions

If your questions are not answered here, please visit the Contact Us page to get in touch with us.

Q : Are these REV Bike kits legal in Australia?
A : The legal limit for an electric bike to still be categorised as a bicycle is 200w in all states of Australia, or 250w if operated by pedelec rather than throttle.  Our 250w kits fall inside the Australian legal limit, presuming you don't fit the throttle (which is included as a user option).  A 250w motor is meant to be engaged by pedelec only (once over 7km/h).  You are allowed to run a 200w motor if engaged by a throttle, and essentially these are the same motors with a bit less current running through the controller.  See details of the Victorian e-bike laws here.
Our 500w and higher kits are sold for off-road use only.    

Q : How much power can I expect from 250w? 
A : The legal limit for riding on roads (200/250watts) was set in Australia because it’s roughly what the average cyclist can pedal at without assistance.  On the flat, it should move you to about 25km/h, motors are limited to this speed for safety and to meet the legal requirements. Higher powered motors (or higher voltages) do go faster, and on hills there will be a proportional improvement in speed and torque.  250w will definitely assist you on hills, but you will still need to pedal too, though it will be much easier pedalling.  You should look at the motor as a form of ASSISTANCE, rather than presuming it will do ALL the work for you.. After all, you still want some light exercise in the great outdoors, right??

Q : How far will a REV-Bike go before I need to recharge it? 
A : Generally speaking, you should get anywhere from 40 to 100kms per charge with a 250w motor, depending on the battery you choose, and how you ride. Our 500w motors will give you range of 25-60kms.  The 1000w motors about 20-40kms.  
Using the lower levels of pedelec assistance (while pedalling) is the most efficient way to use your e-bike, for the longest range.  You should always recharge the battery as often as possible (full charge takes about 3 hours), and a one hour top-up will give you more range after lunch.  
Lithium batteries don’t have a ‘memory’ problem, they prefer to be charged frequently, and you can do damage by running it right down to empty.  That said, all the batteries we sell have built-in BMS (Battery Management System) to reduce the risk of over-charging or depleting.  

Q : How long does the battery take to charge?
A : If you are charging from fairly flat, the larger Lithium batteries can take 3-4 hours to charge. Smaller batteries normally fully charge in less than 3 hours.  As mentioned earlier, you can top the battery up whenever you get a chance. 

Q : Are these kits decent quality, with a reliable Warranty?
YES!  REV-Bikes are not trying to be the cheapest, we strive to be the best!  Our reputation and success depend on you having a positive experience.  As a result, we are always undertaking R&D to bring you the best products we can.
REV personally visit our manufacturers factories, and test all of our components (to their limits!) before offering them to our customers for sale.  We are confident that our motors can comfortably withstand normal riding conditions, and are suitably tough when challenged with Australian terrain.  
We only source the highest quality batteries (Lithium NMC & LiFePO4), which are designed to last the greatest number of charge cycles.  And we have special lower-voltage charging processes, meaning our batteries are safer and longer-lasting than ANY OTHERS AVAILABLE.  If you look after them, they should last at least twice or 3 times as long as cheaper Li-Ion batteries.  See our Battery Care Guidelines.
REV provide a 12 month warranty on all kit components, held here in Australia.   This requires you follow the installation instructions provided, and does not cover incidents where we determine your unreasonable usage contributed to the failure of the components.  We WILL honour your warranty if you have faulty parts, as we believe the future of electric bikes depends on reliability.  See our Warranty here

Q : Are the kits easy to install?
A : Yes, the kits are generally simple to install on regular bikes, particularly if you choose a front-mounting kit, avoiding the need to interfere with the rear cog set.  All required/supplied parts will bolt directly onto 90% of bikes without any modification at all, electrical plugs are colour coded and impossible to plug in wrong.  You will need only basic tools such as spanners, allen keys, and screwdrivers to get most of it done.  
A rear wheel needs the gear cassette / freewheel fitted, so if you want to use your existing cluster, you will need a cluster removal tool.  We can supply a cluster for you to overcome this need, or a bike shop will remove it for you.  
If you want to fit the pedelec, you will need a crank removal tool. 
Detailed installation instructions are provided with kits (email us if you want to see these prior to purchase), and some common challenges are listed to the right here.  You can expect to have it your rev-bike built within an afternoon, presuming you are pretty handy.

Q : Should I get a front wheel or rear wheel kit?
A : We often recommend installing the front wheel motor for 250w kits, as its much easier for a novice to install, without the gears and chain getting in the way.  This leaves you with a 2 wheel drive vehicle (front wheel motor and rear wheel human powered).   This setup also tends to balance out the extra weight on the bike, especially if you have your battery on the back.  A rear wheel motor is better for offroad riding, and we supply all our higher powered motors set up for standard rear dropouts, as this part of the bike is much stronger than the forks.  If wanting to install on the rear wheel, you may want to chat with us first to discuss specific requirements, as some of our kits have different cluster mounting types (most are to mount a spline cassette, but some require a screw-on freewheel).  We can fit the kit for you (we send converted e-bikes across Australia), or can even talk your local bike shop through it if you want


Q : What sort of challenges might I face if fitting the kit myself?
A : Almost any bike with 16" - 29" wheels can be converted to a REV-Bike.  All bikes are different, so some do require a little improvising here and there, we think it’s all part of the fun.  We are available by phone, email or skype to ask questions as you go too, so you are fully supported :)
Below we list the most common complications.  

* If you want to fit a throttle, you may find it clashes with your gear shifters.  We often fit them on the left, as you won't use these gears so often, and this allows you to accelerate when indicating to turn right too.  You can change your shifter/s to a twist type shifter to avoid clashing with thumb throttles if you want.
* If you have integrated brake/gear shifters or hydraulic brakes, we can supply a brake cutout sensor (rather than the standard replacement brake lever with electric cable), so you can attach this sensor to your existing brake lever.  This will cut all power when the brake is applied.
* Drop handlebars cannot have throttles fitted, so you must install a pedelec system only.   

* If you have internal gears or coaster/hub brakes on the rear, you will lose these if you fit a rear motor.  Front wheel mounting is more likely to work on most bikes.
* If you have a dyno for light or roller brakes on the front, these will be lost if you fit a motorised front wheel.
* If mounting on the rear wheel, you should check with us whether the motor you want has the correct mounting to suit your gear cluster (screw or spline type).  Most kits have spline mounts for a cassette, which is the standard on newer bikes.
* With rear wheel installs, you may need to spread the dropouts open to get the wheel in (especially if 8 or more speeds on the rear cluster), and be sure its nicely centred using the spacer washers included.  
* BMX bikes or scooters with a 110mm rear hub spacing will only work with a front wheel conversion (unless you have the rear dropouts widened to 135mm to accommodate a motor, cost around $150). 

* We discourage fitting on carbon-fibre bikes (it’s not pretty if they snap), the forks / dropouts won't be strong enough to handle twisting forces, and frames are also not designed to take the weight of a battery being mounted.  
* Suspension forks are fine if reasonable quality.   Rear suspension normally makes fitting a battery somewhere pretty challenging, you may want to speak to Super Safe Batteries Australia about a custom battery pack.
* If you have a non-standard bottom bracket, you may need to improvise the mounting of the pedelec sensor, or grind out the plastic disc with magnets (we have a number of solutions to overcome such challenges, call us if you face this problem).
* Rack batteries require mounting points near the rear dropouts and also on the rear stays / seatpost.  Frame mounting batteries normally attach to the water bottle mounts, which can normally be drilled in a bike shop (or here at the REV workshop) if you don't have them or they are not in the right spot.  Some bikes won't be able to fit some frame-mounted batteries due to space limitations..  We have templates available with the various batteries in the webshop. 

After 6 years adding these kits to hundreds of bikes, we have solutions to offer for almost every challenge! 
You're welcome to bring your bike in to us (or email us pictures and model number) for a free evaluation & quote if you're not sure.


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